In the
Oracle's Cedar Key travelogue I made mention of
Yeehaw Junction and the infamous Desert Inn. After mulling it over in my mind for a spell I came to the realization that I undoubtedly piqued your interest in this fabled Florida destination that everyone has to visit at least once and now you are yearning to know more.
Well, alright then, grab yourself a brew, sit back and make yourself comfortable. This may take a moment or two, but after I am finished I know that you will be chomping at the bit to skedaddle yourselves down to the junction.
I first heard about Yeehaw Junction back around 1976 or so. A coworker at GTE told us all about a trip he made back from a horse show in Miami. Bill and his buddy parked their truck with a horse trailer outside of the Desert Inn and they moseyed inside to quench their thirst with a couple of cold brews.
As they washed the trail dust from their parched lips a scuffle broke out at the other end of the bar. After one of the scufflers was tossed out the door the bar got quiet again. A few moments later Bill and his friend heard what sounded like a lawnmower engine starting up which seemed a bit odd in as much as there was no lawn around the inn. Suddenly the door to the outside splintered open and in comes this wild man with a fired-up chain saw heading for the person who just moments before had tossed him out the door. Bill and his buddy never did finish their beers. They headed for another door to hastily return to Tampa.
Sometime later, back in the 1990s, I read an article in the Tampa Tribune about the Desert Inn. According to the Trib the inn had been placed on the National Register of Historical Places and was the new "in" place to go to experience old-timey Florida. Besides the inn, the article in the paper said there was a dandy motel associated with the property.
The Belle of Ballast Point and I are always up for a new adventure, so based upon that Trib piece I called the inn to inquire about reservations at the motel. It seemed like a great idea to drive down from Tampa and party at the inn with an overnight stay at the motel. The lady at the other end of the line said, "Y'all come on down, we'll be glad to see ya."
The following weekend one of the first things we saw as we approached Yeehaw Junction was a long concrete block building on the left side of the road that reminded me of some of the bunkers I had been billeted in up at
Camp Blanding. That was the motel! We decided to go on to the Desert Inn and rethink the overnight stay.
The Desert Inn is a two story wooden building with a lot of character and is frequented by a lot of characters. We'll get to them in little while. We walked in to a nearly empty room. There was a lone customer in a far corner and the lady behind the bar. We pulled up stools at the bar and this very nice lady took our drink orders and asked if we wanted to see the menu. We did!
The beers were cold and the menu featured a lot of swamp food - alligator, frog legs, and catfish along with burgers and chicken. My dining partner opted for the fried catfish and I chose the frog legs. Both orders came with fries and coleslaw.
While we were dining, the screen door to our left banged open and a young fellow almost fell through the doorway and ran into the edge of the bar screaming, "I'm blind, I'm blind! I cain't see a fuckin' thing." The barmaid hollered over to him, "Well, take off them goddamn sunglasses ya fool." He did and said, "Yeah, that's better," and sat down on a bar stool. He ordered a whiskey and a beer. We continued with our meal.
Moments later, the screen door opened again. This time a pleasant looking young couple sauntered in and sat at one of the booths. The barmaid took their drink order and gave them menus. The young lady ordered a steak. "And for you sir?" the barmaid asked the man. Through clenched teeth he replied, "I'll have one o' them goddamn steaks, too, if you can grind it up in that there blender on the bar." He went on, "I got my jaw wared shut. My best friend hit me upside the head with a 2 by 4 the other day and broke my goddamn jaw. Now I gotta suck my food up with a straw."
We looked at each other and silently queried, "His best friend?" The man told the barmaid to "fergit" the steak and just bring another beer and a shot of whiskey. We were beginning to sense a trend here and it was only two or so in the afternoon. The barmaid, as she brought us two more beers, commented that this was nothing. She informed us that a local Indian tribe was having their yearly pow-wow at the inn. She went on to say that, "...the squaws are over at the motel getting gussied up for the evening festivities. The braves are off in the woods somewhere getting drunk and beating the shit out of each other."
My bride and I decided we were not going to check in at the motel and after we finished eating we were going to head back to Tampa. We didn't finish quickly enough. Just then a very tall Indian looking fellow walked up to the bar stool next to my bride. He was dressed head to toe in black with silver doodads adorning his broad brimmed ten gallon hat, his huge belt buckle, and the tips of his cowboy boots. He looked at her, then her purse on the bar stool, then back at her. She apologized and moved her purse. He sat down next to her.
The barmaid took his drink order. No surprise here - whiskey and a beer, "...and the same thing for him," said the cowboy pointing to his friend on the next stool. His friend was short and scrawny with wild, thinning red hair, and what appeared to be just two teeth - both in the front, one upper and one lower. After a shot of whiskey the short, red haired one starts muttering, "I want to kill sumthin', goddammit, I want to kill sum goddamned thing."
Holy shit! We were now desperate to get the barmaid's attention so we could pay our bill and get the hell out of there. The cowboy looked over at my bride, and in a move we will never forget, tapped the finger nails of the first two fingers of his right hand under the brim of his hat. The cowboy leaned past my bride and stuck out his hand to me and introduced himself. Damned if I remember his name. At that moment I was barely able to remember mine, but I said, "Nice to meet you, my name is Jon and this is my wife, Lydia."
"Goddammit, I know she's your goddamned wife. You don't have to tell me she's your goddamned wife", he spat out. Holy shit, again! Waitress, please bring us our bill - pretty please. Thankfully, she did. We paid up and nonchalantly made for the door, then we sprinted to our waiting vehicle.
We made really good time getting back to Tampa.
As I said before, everyone needs to go to the Desert Inn at least once. It's on the National Historic Register for god's sake! And, it can't be too bad these days. Bikers aren't afraid to stop there.
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